[Sca-cooks] Structure of an Elizabethan Feast?

Terry Decker t.d.decker at att.net
Fri Apr 22 13:48:09 PDT 2016


"Now to these full dishes (16 primary dishes of the more humble feast) may 
be added in sallats, fricassees, quelquechoses, and devised paste, as many 
dishes more, which make the full service no less than two and thirty dishes, 
which is as much as can conveniently stand on one table, and in one mess; 
and after this manner you may proportion both your second and third course, 
holding fullness in one half of the dishes, and show in the other, which 
will be both frugal in the spender, contentment to the guest, and much 
pleasure and delight to the beholders."

The quote is from the end of Chapter II, Of Cookery.  Pages 123-124 in 
Michael Best's edition.

Ten to twelve courses is more medieval style of service.  By 1560, three 
course great dinners were becoming the norm.  The service you are describing 
will work if your execution is up to the concept.  A lot will depend if your 
staff is up to resolving difficulties.

I do have a historical problem with "above/below the salt."  I have yet to 
find any references to the practice earlier than 19th Century, which usually 
means it is yet another Victorian myth.  If you have any references to the 
practice in period, I'd love to have them.

The numbers on my feast are based on attendance and hall space.  This is one 
of the smallest venues I've used, but it's adequate for the general 
attendance at the events which normally maxes out at 60.  The small numbers 
are allowing me to experiment with presentation and service.  I had 2-2.5 
hours to serve the feast so getting the courses out precisely in order and 
on time, so a good staff that would take direction was critical.  They made 
me look very good.  And of special note was Cailte's husband, who handled 
the carving after the meat slicer died.  Get a good staff and keep it happy.

Of course, you are insane; you're cooking a feast, aren't you.  And this 
list will want to hear about your adventures with your feast.

Bear


So far I'm working from The English Housewife as well, so that text
looks awfully familiar :-)

Where did the 32 dishes/course thing come from?  We're looking at more
courses than that, spread out over far more time, and setting the
expectation that "fast" does not have anything to do with this day.
Courses will have entertainments in between, buying me time. I don't
remember at the moment 10 or 12 courses overall.  The one place where
"fast' matters is that when a course needs to hit, it needs to hit.  But
this is how we are selling the event from the outset, so hopefully it
will go over.  Who knows if it will work as a concept.

We are going above/below the salt, above is limited to... 20? seats,
below to 60?.  So I'm looking at a similar size to what you did, but
currently at 3x as many dishes.  Also doing a couple dishes to feed the
wait staff, but I can cook up a pot of stew in my sleep.

But from that it sounds like I'm insane, but going in the correct-ish
direction.


-- 
Joel Lord

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