[Sca-cooks] Bread Puzzles
JIMCHEVAL at aol.com
JIMCHEVAL at aol.com
Thu Jan 28 15:34:54 PST 2016
Wow. You folks are sure better at math than I am.
A few notes:
I have a link to the original French in my post. Here it is:
_https://books.google.com/books?id=pLGnkboiV38C&dq=%22pain%20blanc%22%20seti
er%20denier&pg=PA198#v=onepage&q&f=false_
(https://books.google.com/books?id=pLGnkboiV38C&dq="pain%20blanc"%20setier%20denier&pg=PA198#v=onepage&q&f=fal
se)
There are a few regionalisms in it, but basically it's medieval French.
I note elsewhere in the post that it is dangerous to take the measurements
too literally. These varied enormously across France until the Revolution
(threatening to behead people does wonders in getting them to fall in line).
I'm reasonably sure that the pound and ounces here are in the ballpark of
our meaning, but it would take some pretty close study of the Limousin
weights and measures in particular to be sure.
Under the "Leavening" heading. I cite a variety of references which confirm
that the term at this point referred to old dough (at least in France).
The first reference I've seen to breaking this up comes from Markham (that
is, seventeenth century). This and the later French practice of cultivating
several generations of leavening makes me think that the use of leavening
evolved over time (but was still in its infancy in our period).
I fully agree about the importance of bolting and sifting (and in fact
emphasize that in the relative section of my post). In my own case, having
laboriously sifted blender-ground flour into very white flour I still ended up
with a brown bread. Ideally however one would use an impact method to grind
the flour, in order to remove the bran from the endosperm without mixing
it all together.
(For what it's worth, however, when I made myself some bread with
completely unsifted home-ground flour, it was delicious.)
Otherwise, I would like to emphasize that as excited as I was to find this
particular text, my post goes well beyond it to outline parameters based on
various sources that hopefully would bring any attempt to make "medieval"
bread closer to what is actually known. I'm grateful for David's
persistence and for his and Bear's calculations, but I hope anyone trying to make
French medieval-style bread will consider the other options here as well.
Jim Chevallier
Contributor, Savoring Gotham
A Food Lover's Companion to New York City
Editor-in-chief: Andrew F. Smith and Foreword by Garrett Oliver
https://global.oup.com/academic/product/savoring-gotham-9780199397020?cc=us&
lang=en
In a message dated 1/28/2016 2:58:57 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
t.d.decker at att.net writes:
Very interesting.
Let's eliminate any weight discrepancies. The French livre (or pound) was
set in 1350 and was retained until replaced by the metric system. It
consists of 16 oz. or 2 marcs (8 oz.).
....
Then there is the question of whether the levain is hard or soft. I'm
going
to assume a soft leaven of 1:2 flour to water by weight. A hard leaven
needs to be broken apart in a warm liquid before use.
This should produce a loaf of roughly 1 lb. 2 oz., a little larger than
the
ones described, but still in the ball park.
I am of the opinion that the smaller amount of liquid is used to hydrate
the
starter no matter what the description says. I have encountered a
description of a modern French baker transporting his levain, about the
size
of a soccer ball, half way around the world. The levain was used to
leaven
commercial batches of bread and recovered from the dough created, so I
have
no reason to doubt Jim's description of the starter.
....
I don't know what you used for sieving, but medieval flour for white bread
usually went through a coarse sieve, a fine sieve and a cloth sieve. That
last one makes for some very finely ground flour, but it is labor
intensive.
A transcription of the original text would be of interest.
Bear
.cgi/sca-cooks-ansteorra.org
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