[Sca-cooks] Kalács

[Terry Decker]

Kal�cs

My first foray into The Science of Cooking was to experiment with a recipe 
that does not appear in the cookbook, that of kal�cs, a sweet enriched 
bread.  In this case, it is fonott (braided) kal�cs.

There isn't much information available on the history of kal�cs, and no 
pre-17th Century recipe I can locate.  In this context, the term translates 
as "cake," much as some other enriched breads were called cakes in other 
cultures. As far as I have been able to ascertain, the common word for bread 
in Hungarian is "keny�r," although I expect I'll get a lecture on that at a 
future date.

The dough most closely resembles that of stollen or rastons rather than 
challah due to the inclusion of milk as an ingredient.  Without some in 
depth research in Hungarian sources (for which I lack the linguistic 
skills), I can't ascertain the inclusion of spices (cinnamon, cardamon, 
etc.) and raisins before the 19th Century.  As a speculation based on the 
evolution of stollen and rastons, the additions to kal�cs likely occurred 
well before The Science of Cooking was written.

And now, the recipe:

Fonott Kal�cs

400 g (1 2/3 C) lukewarm milk
5 g (1 t) sugar
25 g (2 scant T or 2 packets) yeast
60 g (4 T) melted butter
650 g (5 1/2 C) flour
1 egg
48 g (1/4 C) sugar
2.5g (1/2 t) salt
1 egg (beaten) for glaze

Combine 5 g sugar and the yeast with 120 g (1/2 C) milk and let proof.
Whisk egg together with salt and sugar.
Add yeast mixture, milk, butter, and 400 g (roughly 2/3) flour. Beat 
together.
Use remaining flour to knead the dough.  Which should become a smooth, 
slightly sticky ball.
Cover and let rise until doubled (40-60 minutes).
Punch down the dough and knead it briefly.
Divide the dough into 3 equal portions. Roll each portion between your hands 
to form ropes of equal length.
On a greased or parchment covered baking sheet, form the three ropes of 
dough into a braided loaf.
Cover and let rise until doubled (20-30 minutes).
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.
Beat the remaining egg until the yolk and white are thoroughly blended.
Brush the egg glaze onto the loaf just before placing it in the oven.
Bake 30-40 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove and cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Bon appetit,
Bear