[Sca-cooks] Tartine 2019

Terry Decker t.d.decker at att.net
Tue Nov 26 20:00:05 PST 2019


Okay, the first issue they are talking about, the "poolish" which is a sponge usually made from equal weights of water and flour and a small amount of leavening.  The poolish in the Tartine recipe (working from a couple recipes that purport to be from the book) . is a 1:1 mix which makes it a batter rather than a soft dough.  Being a batter, the leavening reproduces and spreads through the mix faster than with a dough.  It also needs to be used more quickly than stiffer sponges.

The second issue with the muffin recipe is 93 percent hydration or to phrase it another way, the weight of the liquid in the recipe is 93 percent of the weight of the flour in the recipe.  The calculation is the baker's percentage or a way of establishing the ratios of the ingredients without specific weights (baker's percentage (of ingredient) = weight of ingredient / weight of flour).  Without the original recipe, I can't make any serious speculation, but my examination of the other recipes makes me think the percentage of hydration is about 65 percent which equates to a 1:3 water to flour by volume.  That would be a very soft dough.

The English muffin recipe is  likely one that requires a great deal of care.

The issue with the croissant dough is that the recipe says it makes 1.6 kg while the person making the comment says it produces over 2.2 kg.  Looking at a recipe purporting to be for the Tartine croissants, a crude calculation of the ingredients suggests that the comment may be correct.

Hope that helps.  

Bear
On 11/26/2019 7:09:57 PM, Patricia Dunham <chimene at ravensgard.org> wrote:
oy! sorry about that.

So, I was poking around on-line yesterday trying to figure out when the new issues of Bon Appetit and Saveur, and a couple of others, would be showing up, when I came across a couple of articles (epicurious https://www.epicurious.com/expert-advice/tartine-isnt-the-same-as-it-used-to-be-article ) and review pages for this book, which I did recognize the name, from the big froo-froo 13 years ago when it was originally published.

Most of the comments I found were very positive, BUT, from the first, people writing customer reviews were meeping about measurements and moisture levels, especially in two really foundational recipes, the croissant dough and the English muffins ( Amazon.com: Customer reviews: Tartine: A Classic Revisited: 68 All-New Recipes + 55 Updated Favorites (Baking Cookbooks, Pastry Books, Dessert Cookbooks, Gifts for Pastry Chefs)

>From the level of excitement at the sites where I found out about this NEW EDITION I sort of assumed folks here would be talking about it too. Although it certainly is OP! I'm not working on anything particular, just kind of rev'd up about trying new things for the holidays (which is when that is most likely to happen, usually).

I like weighing too, in some cases. I've been weighing my main bread ingredients for several years now, and it sure does give you a different perspective than the old volume measures. Weight is weight and doesn't care how damp a day it is, or when you sifted last!

I can see I'm gonna' have to collect a copy of the first ed., for comparison purposes. At least.

Thanks, I hadn't meant to be so opaque.
Chimene


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