[Scriptoris] Black outlines retrieved, correction techniques

Elaine eshc at earthlink.net
Tue May 4 18:28:22 PDT 2010

In earlier days and for 'batched" scrolls, we had the artwork  
outlines and some of the general text printed by copy machine with  
space left for the winner's name and the competition info to be hand- 
scribed at the appropriate time. (When there are 50 plus to letter in  
a weekend, shortcuts were taken so the scribes wouldn't pass out on  
the job.) At "painting parties," the preprinted ink outlines of the  
artwork made wonderful "dams" for the colored parts, provided the  
paint had the right viscosity so as to stop when it got to the line.  
The names and competition info were scribed on site.

Corrections are not hard. I have cleaned up beginning painters'  
artwork (after it dried thoroughly) with a very light scraping of the  
top layer to get the over-paint off, but not hard enough to disturb  
the preprinted ink. Takes a verrrry light touch if you want to clean  
up work. Jeweler's "goggles" help, too.

Another point: if you have an unwanted flick of ink or color on a  
scroll, reprinted or otherwise, carefully curve the error area over  
your other hand's index finger or over a jar like a Miracle Whip jar  
and, using the long side of an Xacto blade to scrape in a fine powder  
the area, touching just enough to get the paint powdered, but not the  
paper. (Pray the paint is a pigmented one and not a dye-type that  
sinks in.)

Don't just scrape in one direction, but scrape in the directions of  
an asterisk.  Blowing after each scrape keeps the powder from falling  
into the interstices of the paper's fibers. Just don't spit on the  
paint when you blow!

If you have to reletter or repaint over the corrected area, it is  
best to burnish the disturbed area with the back of a spoon, but not  
hard enough to leave "spoon grooves" or make the paper shiny. If the  
area is not large, you might try the flat top of your fingernail.  
Burnishing will settle the fibers down if they have been disturbed  
and make them more suitable for corrections. A dusting with sandarac  
ground to face powder fineness (put on by a pounce pad and removed by  
a feather) is an additional way to prepare burnished paper for  

Been at it a while....... There are other tricks I have developed  
through the years, but not enough time to tell them here. Good luck  
to all.
HL Lete Bithespring
PS. Be careful about the kind of ink/paint you use to line or  
reline.----HL L B
On May 4, 2010, at 5:45 PM, Hillary Greenslade wrote:

> I think it depends on the illumination source, some will have black  
> lines and some will not.
> Some sources will outline only some areas, some outline in other  
> colors than black and the colors may vary throughout.  .
> If the source has black lines, I tend to prefer to do the lines  
> first, wait 24 hours to completely dry, then paint, then go back  
> and touch up only the areas that I painted over the lines on.   For  
> gold leaf, you do the gold first, then put in the black lines.  I  
> find that when I black line afterwards, sometimes the ink is too  
> think, and it's difficult to get right next to the painted areas,  
> without actually inking on the painted areas - then the ink looks  
> too thick.  I sometimes use a technical pen, but mostly these days,  
> I use a crowquill pen nib with ink.
> Good luck. Hillary
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: David Brown <lddevin03 at yahoo.com>
> To: scriptoris at lists.ansteorra.org
> Sent: Mon, May 3, 2010 7:18:39 PM
> Subject: [Scriptoris] Question
> Two schools of thought. One says that it is better to paint your  
> scrolls then black line them and the other says black line then paint.
> What is the general thought from this discussion board?
> Tiarna Devin
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