warning on leather treatments .... RE: PE - RE: Grommet failu re

bjorn bjorn at odsy.net
Mon Feb 14 11:58:59 PST 2000

How about tallow ? Years ago I was taught that it was a good leather

Bjorn Lochlannac

-----Original Message-----
From: j'lynn yeates
To: periodencampments at ansteorra.org
Sent: 2/14/2000 12:36 PM
Subject: warning on leather treatments .... RE: PE - RE: Grommet failure

Hash: SHA1

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-periodencampments at ansteorra.org
> [mailto:owner-periodencampments at ansteorra.org]On Behalf Of 
> John LaTorre
> I wrote Peter Barclay about how to condition leather, and he 
> asked that I post it
> on the list. I told him:
> Well, I've just used whatever the shoe stores sell for 
> conditioning boots and shoes ... Snow Seal, "mink oil" (which I
> hope doesn't really come  from minks), neatsfoot oil, and the like.
> I doubt there's very much difference  between the lot. To avoid
> staining the canvas, just don't get carried away with the 
> application -- just use enough that the treatment is absorbed, then
> wipe the rest  off. If it's sandwiched between layers of canvas, I
> think you're pretty much stuck  with saturating the area with the
> treatment, to assure that the oil or whatever is  really getting to
> the leather. But smile and think how "period" your tent looks.  

a lesson taught by my father in the tack room when maintaining the
family saddles and tack ...

actually, they're not all the same .. the cheaper the treatment, the
more likely you will accelerate rotting out the natural fiber thread
used in seams and/or in this case the canvas the patches are tached
to.  why?  certain of the extenders and stabilizers they add to
prolong shelf life and stretch the actual waterproofing materials are
acidic.  go to a leather store, or better yet a saddle shop and spend
the $$$'s on the better quality stuff.  

and be careful of leather "waterproof sealers".  they will seal the
leathe so well that it loses it's natural ability to breath which
will lead to it drying out and/or rotting (from below as the canvas
wicks moisture into the rear face.

for external leather, i prefer a regular application of quality
saddle soap ... replaces the oils that leather loses over time that
make it water resistant and then a top dressing of quality neatsfoot
oil (san extenders and additives ... the big jug cost a bit (not the
supermarket garbage) but it only takes a bit each time


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