Steak Tartar (Was Re: [Sca-cooks] Capers caper)

[Philip & Susan Troy]

Stefan li Rous wrote:

> We have had discussions here previously about how close hamburger or
> ground meats approximate the similar period meat treatment, which
> would be finely chopping it with a knife, which you seem to have
> actually done.
>
> How would you compare the textures? How much time does it take you
> to finely chop it enough?

The main areas of difference are these, as far as I'm concerned. Others
may have other issues. In ground meat, the connective tissue (which of
course is rather low in a beef tenderloin for the tartare example) is
sort of pulled apart, often separated from the meat, and sometimes
gathered together by the grinder, sometimes not. Essentially, when you
do get gristle, it tends to be... impressive. When you chop the meat,
everything gets chopped. Same for fat. The fat is often obliterated to a
greasy smear by a grinder; chopped fat is merely chopped, mixed with the
meat, and does its job to keep the whole thing moist. (Recall that
sausage recipes generally call for hard back or kidney fat, sometimes
even cubed by hand, rather than soft or, G-d help us, rendered fat, as a
rule. The logic is the same.)

In short, chopped meat, while perhaps being more granular in texture
than ground meat, is also somehow more homogeneous, overall. Yes, it is
a paradox, but true nonetheless. And the little granules feel different
in the mouth than the semi-crushed, semi-extruded threads from a grinder do.


>>Mix with varying quantities of ingredients to flavour the whole
>>thing.  Dijon mustard, egg yolk, tabasco sauce, chopped capers, chopped
>>shallots (French), mignonette (freshly coarsly ground black
>>peppercorn).  Some people will add to this basic mix, but I wouldn't stray
>>too much.  It has to remain fairly simple.
>>
>
> Is this a raw egg yolk? Or one from a hardboiled egg?

Raw yolks are a common addition. I suppose if one is going to worry too
much about disease, there's not too much point to this particular
activity. Maybe an egg from a free-range hen?

> Thanks. this steak tartare has been mentioned several times on this
> list previously. Now I have an idea of what it really is.
>
>
>>I make a mean steak tartare, even if I do say so myself.  My wife would at
>>times beg me for it.  She'd also ask for my chocolate mousse as dessert :-)
>>
>
> I'm still not sure about this raw meat.

Okay, here's what you do. Go back to Koreana and check out their raw
beef sashimi. (How could a Korean restaurant in Texas _not_ sell raw
beef sashimi?) After a couple of doses, you may be ready for the hard
stuff. ;  )

Adamantius--
Phil & Susan Troy

troy at asan.com

"It was so blatant that Roger threw at him.  Clemens gets away with
things that get other people thrown out of games.  As long as they
let him get away with it, it's going  to continue." -- Joe Torre, 9/98