[Sca-cooks] OOP - Just another trip to the supermarket - long...
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Sat Dec 4 20:48:56 PST 2004
Hullo, the list!
On a trip to one of our local large markets earlier this evening, I
discovered several cans of sopa de garrobo on the shelf. This seems
to be canned iguana soup, specifically from the brown iguana, which
is a delicacy compared to its no-account, green-trash cousin, the
green iguana. Who knew?
Anyway, when we got home I did a little digging and found this old
Washington Post article online at
http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn?pagename=article&node=&contentId=A26156-2003Apr14¬Found=true
(which I include here because registration is required). The Long
Island company mentioned near the end of the article is the one
distributing the stuff I saw in cans earlier this evening. I guess
you really _can_ get almost anything in New York.
No, we didn't buy any.
>Where the Lizard Is King
>Area Markets Satisfy Salvadoran Demand for Iguana Meat
>
> By Krissah Williams
> Washington Post Staff Writer
> Tuesday, April 15, 2003; Page E01
>
> Behind the meat counter at Mercadito Ramos II, Jaime Medina lifted
>a bag of dark-pink iguana meat to the silver scale. The headless,
>skinless lizard registered 3.3 pounds. "Forty dollars," Medina said
>in Spanish.
>
>Since the iguanas began arriving at the Langley Park store last
>month, Medina, a 23-year-old Salvadoran who runs the store for his
>father, has sold them at $12.50 per pound to Central Americans
>hungry for a taste of home. There the meat is a delicacy, a cure-all
>and an aphrodisiac.
>
>"They are a traditional food," he said. "People eat them when they
>are ill. They are like a total energy vitamin. People hear about it
>by word of mouth, and they are buying them."
>
> The pointy-faced lizards are bred on farms in El Salvador,
>shrink-wrapped and then shipped frozen in cardboard boxes lined with
>plastic foam. In Central America, those with green scales are called
>iguanas, and those with the brown scales and tastier meat -- the
>ones people prefer to eat -- are called garrobos. The meat tastes
>like chicken but is a little tougher and has less fat.
>
>The brown-scaled iguanas started arriving sporadically last year in
>about a dozen local Latino grocery stores, a few hundred boxes at a
>time. They sold out within days, store owners said. "It is very
>expensive, but once people know we have them, they buy them," said
>Carlos A. Castro, owner of Todos Hispanic Supermarket in Woodbridge.
>
> Encouraged by the response, ranchers in El Salvador are gearing up
>for bigger shipments to this region, according to officials from the
>Salvadoran Embassy.
>
>Mercadito Ramos buys its frozen iguanas for $9 per pound from
>Distribuidora Cuscatlan Inc., located in a busy enclave of ethnic
>food distributors in Northeast Washington. Cuscatlan buys the
>iguanas for $6 per pound directly from ranchers in El Salvador.
>
> At $12.50, the meat sold at Mercadito is pricey, but some say it is
>worth it. "It's better than Viagra," said Silver Spring resident
>Herbert Hernandez, 24, who moved here from San Vicente nine years
>ago.
>
> "If you are feeling ill for a few days and you want to recover
>quickly, it is the number one vitamin," said Salvadoran Alicia
>Chicas, 49, manager of Mercadito. "My parents thought it was
>strange, but one day I was sick. I had asthma. Someone gave me
>garrobo soup, and it really helped me get better."
>
>At the Mercadito meat counter, Hyattsville resident Yolanda Roque, a
>Guatemalan with a floppy blond ponytail, glanced past the seasoned
>fajita meat, Salvadoran chorizo, pescado seco -- a traditional salty
>dried fish -- and foot-long cow tongue before stopping to read the
>black-and-white printout that said "Desde El Salvador Garrobo."
>Translation: Iguana from El Salvador.
>
>Examining the iguana meat, Roque said she had heard from a
>Salvadoran co-worker at a laundry in Baltimore that it was sold at
>Mercadito. "I asked a friend to bring me two garrobos from El
>Salvador, but they didn't allow her to bring them into the U.S.,"
>said Roque, 48, although she fretted over the price. "When I heard
>Mercadito Ramos was selling them, I decided to come by."
>'You Eat That Thing?'
>
>
>
>There was a time when iguanas nearly overran El Salvador, roaming
>the hot, arid streets of the cities and climbing trees along the
>eastern coast. There were so many iguanas in San Miguel that
>Salvadorans started calling men from there garroberos, after the
>iguanas, said Enilson Solano, counselor for economic affairs at the
>Embassy of El Salvador.
>
>"Most people will look at an iguana and say, 'You eat that thing?' .
>. . [But] people in El Salvador eat so many," said Castro, who is
>from San Salvador. "The poor little creatures almost disappeared.
>That put a damper on consumption in El Salvador. When I was a kid,
>we could see them everywhere."
>
> Castro, 48 and an animal lover, said he was often the reluctant kid
>in the bunch when his cousins would go to the Pacific coast to hunt
>iguanas in caves or trees. They would set traps at cave openings.
>"At my grandmother's ranch, when they saw an iguana taking sun on
>high branches, someone would climb the tree and knock them down.
>They had dogs ready to catch them," Castro said.
>
>"When I was 12, I would go with my cousin to the city. He would hit
>them with a slingshot. They would fall, and he would eat them. He
>would cut off the head and legs and would peel off the scales and
>pull the tough skin back," Castro said.
>
>Traditionally, iguana meat is cut up; mixed with water, tomatoes,
>potatoes, onion, garlic and traditional Central American herbs; and
>simmered for two hours, creating a thick stew. Many also like to eat
>wild iguana eggs with rice.
>
>"My dad, when I was young, used to catch big iguanas with eggs
>inside," Castro said. "He used to cut them open one inch in the
>tummy and get the eggs out. They are very delicious. Then he put
>three stitches in the iguana and let them go."
>
> Mothers fed iguana meat to their sick children, as one would
>chicken noodle soup. It was also said to cure hangovers and to keep
>the elderly strong.
>
>Eventually the number of wild iguanas dwindled so much that the El
>Salvador government made it illegal to catch them.
>'Iguana High'
>
>
>
>Salvadoran ranchers first spotted a large iguana export market in
>the United States about 1993, after American children fell in love
>with the T. rex and raptors in Steven Spielberg's "Jurassic Park,"
>said the embassy's Solano. But the business of exporting live
>iguanas to U.S. pet stores peaked years ago.
>
>More recently, the Salvadoran food companies that built processing
>plants to clean and package iguana meat also have developed massive
>iguana ranches, Solano said. . Ranchers are gearing up for more
>exports to the United States.
>
>Salvadoran executive Max Novoa is one of the businessmen who decided
>to export iguana food products here. Novoa, whose family owns
>Arrocera San Francisco, which is one of the largest
>food-manufacturing companies in El Salvador, spent a year working
>with a food technician to perfect a canned recipe for iguana soup.
>
>"It's very traditional, with vegetables and no preservatives," Novoa
>said in a telephone interview. "There is a lot of manual processing,
>regional spices and a lot of [iguana] meat. It's not something you
>can [mass-produce]. We're bringing a little to start and see how it
>goes."
>
> The soup, sold under Arrocera's Doña Lisa label, will be
>distributed by Long Island, N.Y.-based All Foods. Novoa, who splits
>his time between New York and El Salvador, is part owner of the
>distribution company. Next month, the canned soup is to begin
>arriving in stores in the Washington area, which has hundreds of
>thousands of Central American immigrants and more than 100 Latino
>grocery stores, and in other cities including San Francisco and New
>York.
>
> In his country, iguanas are viewed as a "natural energy source,"
>Novoa said. "Its cells have the ability to regenerate easily. If its
>tail is cut off, it grows back."
>
> "There is some belief that cold-blooded animals purify the blood of
>hot-blooded animals, like humans," he added.
>
>Novoa has little hope that iguana will appeal to large numbers of
>native North Americans. Instead, his plan is to ship his iguana soup
>to Asian countries, where he said people share similar beliefs and
>tastes regarding reptiles. He is working with a food broker in Hong
>Kong to export the canned soup to mainland China, where snake is a
>delicacy.
>
> "Iguana high. They call it the natural Viagra," Novoa said.
>"There's a market."
>
>Staff writer Luz Lazo contributed to this report.
--
"S'ils n'ont pas de pain, vous fait-on dire, qu'ils mangent de la
brioche!" / "If they have no bread, you have to say, let them eat
brioche."
-- attributed to an unnamed noblewoman by Jean-Jacques
Rousseau, "Confessions", pub 1782
"Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?"
-- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry
Holt, 07/29/04
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