[Sca-cooks] S.O.B Stew
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Sun Jun 6 16:55:10 PDT 2004
Also sprach Michael Gunter:
>>Uhm...what is it?
>>--maire
>
>I'll leave it to Master A to provide the details but Sonnavab**** stew was
>made after a cow was slaughtered to feed the wranglers. It's basically a
>stew made from the innards. Heart, liver, tripe, stomach...whatever.
>
>It's been a very long time since I read the recipe but it sounded pretty
>icky. And a standard of chuckwagon cuisine.
>
>I also recall that it would be renamed to "honor" whatever person the
>cook happened to be angry at at the time. Most often a boss or a
>governor.
That's about right. One version of the story behind it is that it's
made from the parts of the slaughtered animal that won't keep, and
only a real sonofabitch would eat it. It's also been speculated that
since organ meats are so high in vitamins and minerals compared to
muscle meat (they're also significantly higher in cholesterol, as a
rule), cowboys on the range might begin to display various food
cravings, mood swings, and generally bad behavior. When they became
real SOB's, it was time to cook up some SOB, which cured them until
next time.
Whatever the explanation, it's pretty much considered a test of
manhood (much more so, to my mind, than haggis, which is ground up
and pretty much resembles some forms of Jewish kishka, and not much
more strongly flavored than, say, the average liverwurst).
There's a fairly standard SOB recipe here:
http://www.thewildwest.org/cowboys/cow_west_facts/trail_recipes/son.html
Be careful if you do a Web search for SOB Stew -- there's a recipe
proliferating many different Web sites (probably the winner of some
silly contest) for Son Of A Son Of A Bitch Stew; it's made with
muscle meat (beef chuck) and vegetables, and doesn't resemble SOB in
any way, really.
Real SOB, as best as I can recall, is pretty much a mix of different
organ meats cooked in water, or maybe a little tomato juice if
palatable water is scarce (which seems to be how tomatoes entered the
canonical Texas chili recipe when wiser heads had tried to prevent
this catastrophe ;-) ), possibly with onions, until all the meats
are tender, the flavors blended, and some of the gelatin from the
meats have thickened the broth a bit. Both black and red pepper
appear as seasonings.
Typical meats would include calves' liver, heart, tongue,
sweetbreads, with perhaps some muscle meat in there to stretch it all
a little (but this, I think, is frowned upon), and most serious
authorities agree it's not real SOB without the margut or marrowgut,
which is a secondary esophagus connecting two of the four stomachs of
certain ruminants (this appears in Elizabethan recipes as "mugget",
BTW, commonly used in pies). It's kind of like a gelatinous tube made
out of tripe-ey stuff, which you cut into rings that look a little
like calamari ready for frying. The reason you want this to be
calves' innards is because ideally, the margut of an unweaned calf is
best -- when the animal starts eating grass, it becomes tough, like
the lining of a bird's crop -- so if you're going to make SOB, you
want a young animal, and presumably using the same animal for all the
organs needed is a pretty straightforward and sensible plan.
Somewhere I have a copy of Frank X. Tolbert's "A Bowl Of Red", which,
I believe, has a long and detailed recipe. If I find the book before
I forget about this thread, I'll see about posting the recipe...
Adamantius
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