[Sca-cooks] Starter went 'Pffft'
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Mon Nov 29 12:35:48 PST 2004
Also sprach Chris Stanifer:
>Okay. I think I've figured out the problem. I'm wondering if this
>is a misuse of nomenclature?
>In Britain, doughs which use a 'sourdough' starter are sometimes
>called 'acids' or 'acid breads',
>which implies that they have tartness to them. This further implies
>that the starter is commonly
>used once it has become acidic (hence the name 'sour' dough).
>
>I believe what Bear and yourself are referring to should actually be
>described as a Biga, or a
>Chef, or (if loosely translated) a Levain. These are traditionally
>made using spontaneous
>fermentation, but used before they are allowed to sour (although
>many modern recipes call for
>yeast to be added to the mixture). So, it is possible to have a
>'sourdough' starter which is not
>yet sour.... but if you use it before it sours, then it is not a
>'sourdough' starter...it is a
>Biga, Chef, Levain or some other terminology. It looks like a
>contest of nomenclature.
I suspect you're right. On the other hand, given that Biga, Chef, and
Levain aren't English words, and the [fact?] that sourdough (if you
distinguish it from Biga, Chef, and Levain) is more or less a Western
Anglo-American usage (unless I'm mistaken), I'm not so much saying
that they get to decide what it means, as that it's useless to argue.
In practical reality, you _can_ have sourdough that isn't especially
sour. Because some 19th-century Chuck Wagon cook said so, and he
knows better than you and me. And not only was it _authentic_
frontier gibberish -- okay, no more "Blazing Saddles" after midnight.
;-)
>In short, IMHO, a sourdough starter is used for the express purpose
>of providing a pleasant, sour
>tang to the bread (and gelatinizing the starch in 100% rye breads).
>A Starter which has not been
>allowed to sour is just that...a starter.
<Bugs Bunny voice and accent> Ehhhhhhhh, I'm not so sure about dat,
bub. With respect, and speaking from a purely forensic standpoint, is
it possible you're applying European terms to an American concept and
then blaming the American concept for not meeting expectations
expressed in the terms?
> > An example along similar lines might be the fact that sauerkraut has
>> had that lactic fermentation take place, whereas cabbage pickled with
>> vinegar is just pickled cabbage, even though it is sour...
>
>Oh, they helped me...
Good! Just tryin' ta keep it light and make my point at the same time.
Adamantius
--
"S'ils n'ont pas de pain, vous fait-on dire, qu'ils mangent de la
brioche!" / "If they have no bread, you have to say, let them eat
brioche."
-- attributed to an unnamed noblewoman by Jean-Jacques
Rousseau, "Confessions", pub 1782
"Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?"
-- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry
Holt, 07/29/04
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