[Sca-cooks] [OOP] Ice cream

[Volker Bach]

Am Sonntag, 17. Juli 2005 09:10 schrieb Stefan li Rous:
> Giano gave several ice cream recipes from Elizabeth David's "Harvest of
> the Cold Months". Unfortunately, some of the phrasing is unfamiliar to
> me.

Apologies, It was late evening here.

> > Historical ice cream recipes
> >
> > To make the sorbet:
> > 50ml cinnamon water
> > 200ml water
> > 100g sugar
> > mix all ingredients, put in a coldproof container and freeze. Shake
> > and/or
> > stir approximately every 15 minutes to give it a granita-like
> > consistency.
>
> Uh, what is a "granita-like" consistency? That last a isn't supposed to
> be an "e" is it? :-) Afterall it does say to stir it every 15 minutes.

granita is a word for the consistency of spoonable buit near-liquid water ice 
that is brother to Slush Puppies. Soft and soggy, like melting snow.

> > Nut milk ice (after Latini, 1692)
> >
> > 1 cup pine nuts
> > 1cup almonds
> > water to cover
> > 1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar
> > coriander
> > succade or other confits
> >
> > Soak pine nuts and almonds in a bowl with enough water to cover them
> > overnight. Process them and strain off the liquid. Mix in sugar to
> > taste and
> > season with a pinch of coriander. Freeze in an icemaker, stirring
> > continuously. When almost finished, stir in a small handful of confits.
>
> Process the nuts, how? Grinding them up with the liquid? Are they
> making pine nut/almond milk? It is the liquid you keep, right? Not the
> ground up? nuts.

The nuts go into the food processor and are then strained through a sieve. At 
this point much of the almonds stays in the sieve, but soaked pine nuts are 
so soft they'll moire or less dissolve and go through as sludge, so it's more 
like making pine nut/almond clotted cream.  

> > Toasted almond ice cream (after Corrado 1778)
> >
> > 3 egg yolks
> > 1 cup crushed almonds
> > 1 cup rich milk or cream
> > 1 tsp cinnamon water (see above)
> >
> > Make a custard with the milk and egg yolks, and stir in the cinnamon
> > water.
> > Toast the almonds till lightly browned, then process them to a coarse
> > powder.
> > Add the custard and mix. Our into a container and freeze, stirring
> > every 15
> > minutes to prevent the almonds from sinking to the bottom.
>
> How do you "Make a custard with the milk and egg yolks"? I assume I can
> probably find this in cookbooks or online, but I've already asked these
> other questions...

You stir the yolk into the milk and heat it slowly, stirring or beating all 
the while, until the mixture thickens. Just like above, really, but since 
eggy and milk make traditional custard I was too lazy type out detailed 
instructions again. 

> Some of these recipes do call for sugar. Is this just for sweetening?
> Or is it also used to create the texture? I'm wondering if I can
> substitute Splenda.

For the block-frozen custard ices I am not sure. The egg and milk fat might be 
enough to keep them from freezing rock-hard. The water ices need sugar to 
freeze into anything other than crystal cubes, though I'm sure you can 
substitute Splenda if you agitate them more regularly, or just use a modern 
ice maker that stirs continuously. (I'm almost certain that approach would 
improve the others as well, by modern standards)

> Hmmm. Maybe it is time to bring out the shaved ice machine.

Or that. :) Just freeze the water ices overnight and shave as needed sounds 
like a good shortcut.

Now I'm tempted to try a custard ice for dessert next feast. What's a century 
or so... (maybe timeline-themed? First course from Anthimus, second course 
from the Anglo-Norman Cookery books and the Harpestreng manuscript, third 
course from Platina and Welserin, dessert from 17th century sources?)

Giano


	

	
		
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