[Sca-cooks] Images of Dining in Ireland 1581
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Tue Aug 8 21:59:30 PDT 2006
On Aug 9, 2006, at 12:49 AM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Some of the details in the woodcuts in regards to clothes are
> pretty spot-on: the oversized leine sleeves, the very short, high-
> jackets with pleated skirting (ionar, I think the jackets are
> called), the
> shaggy mantles. I've seen some of the woodcuts before in another
> and always concentrated primarily on the clothing. I'll have to
> take some
> time and look at them all this weekend, now that I've got this
> nifty new
> website bookmarked!
I'm not an authority on costume, but I've got people in my household
who've done quite extensive research into Irish and Scots clothing,
ad some of the things they told me years ago seem to come back to me
when I look at these woodcuts.
One of them was that this type of dress and the somewhat unclear
representations of it in things like woodcuts, _may_ be early
examples of the philabeg, or the small kilt that many SCAdians claim
doesn't occur until the 18th century or so.
I refer you specifically to the pinched waists of most of the Irish
men illustrated, although I don't believe you see a single,
identifiable belt around the waist of any of the men pictured. What
you do see is a thing like an Elizabethan neck ruff, sticking out
from the waist, but at an angle not really consistent with being part
of the lower, trailing edge of the jacket.
Well, to make a long story short, there's been some speculation that
what you're seeing in those woodcuts are guys wearing jackets that
actually come over the hips, but are tucked into a pleated garment
similar to the modern-ish philabeg, differing only in the lack of a
sewn-in waistband (although the pleats may or may not have been
stitched together near the top). The ruffly thing is possibly the
upper edge of the "kilt", sticking up over and hanging down to
conceal a belt (and leaving enough clearance so it doesn't fall out
of the belt).
Adamantius (who in his younger, slenderer days has been known to wear
various kilt-like garments)
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