[Sca-cooks] A curiosity

[Pappa Scott]

    Message: 9
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 11:25:18 -0500
From: "marilyn traber 011221" 

Subject: [Sca-cooks] A curiosity
To: Cooks within the SCA 
Message-ID: <20060322155730.M84521 at 99main.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

So, I'm sitting around the house, making some beef stock- the commercial 
stuff Margali gets had WAY too much salt, and figured I'd surf the 'Net, and 
see what various people on line had to say about making it.

I noticed two things.

First, every one of the sites I surfed wanted you to add various herbs, 
something that I had always been told was a no no because you want to have 
the stock available to flavor ANYTHING your heart desires, and some herbs 
just are not at their best with some foods.

They did all agree, however, on the veggies to be added- carrots, onions, and 
celery, except for one site that advocated adding turnips.

And the Second was getting rid of the fat. All of them wanted you to skim and 
carry on, which is a pain, rather more labor intensive than I prefer. None of 
the ones I saw suggested the easiest way to get rid of the fat- chill the 
stock overnight, then remove the solid fat in the morning.

Anybody got a reason you wouldn't want to chill it overnight to remove the 
fat?

My method is pretty easy, although it takes a long time- roast the bones 
overnight at a low heat (or not, if you want a white stock), then, in the 
morning, caramelize the veggies a bit, throw in the bones and any scrap meat 
you want to add, cover with cold water, then let the pot simmer away 
thoughout the day. That evening, after supper, remove the bones and pitch 
(they're too brittle to feed to critters), strain twice- first time through a 
collander to get the big bits out, second through cloth (they say 
cheesecloth, but not having any, I've a bit of all cotton light canvas I 
use), and put into the fridge to chill.

Next AM, remove the fat, then reheat the stock, to reduce by about half. 
About lunchtime, clarify w/egg white, if you do that sort of thing, twice (I 
do), and put back on the stove to simmer and reduce some more. Meantime, mix 
up the two egg yolks with a whole egg, and make yourself either some 
scrambled eggs or French Toast.

Let the stock reduce down to where you want it, then pour it into and ice 
cube tray and freeze it. Next AM, seperate the cubes and put them in a 
freezer baggie, to dump into whatever you want to enrich.

Phlip

--------
   
  The veggies are a classic mire poix - the holy trinity of classic French cooking (onions,celery and carrot in a 2/1/1 ratio).  Back many moons ago, when I was still cooking professionally, we always left the fat on our stock - when cooled down it serves as a wonderful seal for your stock.  I still do this today when I make stock at home.  I generally take my stock down even further though making a fond.
   
  Someone else asked why egg whites were used.  It is to clarify the stock.  As the proteins in the egg whites coagulate they form a 'raft' which holds the impurities in the stock as it reduces.  This is the 'secret' behind consomme.  The key to a good raft is making sure you have a hole acting as a chimney to allow steam to escape thus preventing your raft from breaking apart.
   
  Your idea with of stock, fond, whathaveyou, in the ice cube tray is an excellent one which I have used many times.  You can also use any variety of plastic containers (stackable are easier on your freezer) or even freezer bags.  Freezing your stock beforehand in this manner makes for extra 'ice' for your cooler also - just plan ahead on what you will be needing.
   
  Fergus Stout
   

		
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