[Sca-cooks] Period Greek Recipes
Lilinah
lilinah at earthlink.net
Thu Apr 5 18:54:14 PDT 2007
Vitaliano Vincenzi asked about SCA-period Greek food, but didn't
mention the time period in his first few posts.
First, pita, while now associated with the Eastern Mediterranean
primarily Muslim countries, actually has a Greek name, which was pide
(two syllables), which was borrowed by the Ottomans in the 15th
century. It was not "pocket bread" as modern pita is, it was just
flat bread, so i don't use it at SCA events. I purchase other Middle
Eastern flat breads that are actually flat, since i'm not a bread
baker.
Second, because of hostility between modern Greece and modern Turkey,
the Greeks are loathe to admit that any aspects of their modern
culture were derived from or influenced by the Turks. So of course
the Greeks will claim souvlaki to be completely Greek in origin,
regardless of its actual origin.
Third, there are many books that address Greek cuisine of the
Classical and Late Antique periods.
For pure scholarly information, without recipes, there is:
* Andrew Dalby.
Siren Feasts, A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece.
Routledge, London & New York: 1996.
These two books contain recipes from both Greek and Roman sources:
* Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger.
The Classical Cookbook.
British Museum Press, London: revised edition 2000.
* Ilaria Gozzini Giacosa. Translated by Anna Herklotz.
A Taste of Ancient Rome.
University of Chicago Press, Chicago and London: 1992.
The first (Dalby & Grainger) has lots of excellent additional
information and lovely photos of period items, while the second
(Giacosa) has more recipes and plenty of useful information. Since
both are paperbacks, they are affordable additions to an historical
cookbook library.
Finally, while the Apician cookbook - clearly not written by the
famous Apicius - is rather Late Antique Period Roman, many of the
recipes are Greek in origin and have Greek names. There is a brand
new translation, which i think is the best, by Sally Grainger (of The
Classical Cookbook) and her scholar husband:
* Christopher Grocock and Sally Grainger.
Apicius, a critical edition with an introduction and English translation.
Prospect Books, UK: 2006
And there's Grainger's companion booklet, with her worked-out recipes
and comments, well worth owning for those who like doing the cooking
of that time:
* Sally Grainger
Cooking Apicius: Roman Recipes for Today
Prospect Books, UK: 2006
The David Brown Co. had, and may still have, a special deal with the
two books cheaper than the big hardcover "Apicius" alone (still it
isn't cheap, but it's worthy). ($75 for the two, whereas the
hardcover Apicius is $80, and the softcover Cooking Apicius is $20)
The second best translation is:
* Anonymous. Translated by Barbara Flower & Elizabeth Rosenbaum.
Apicius, The Roman Cookery Book. Peter Nevill, Ltd, London & New York: 1958.
This is LONG out of print, but i was fortunate to find an affordable
copy, and it's a classic in the field.
* Patrick Faas. Translated by Shaun Whiteside.
Around the Roman Table: Food and Feasting in Ancient Rome.
Palgrave Macmillan, New York and Hampshire UK: 1994, 2003.
He has some information in his chapters, but he hated some Apician
recipes which i actually worked out for a feast and which were
delicious and well-received. Shrug. I'm still glad i have the book.
I do not recommend the Jonathon Edwards version, but i can't cite my
specific reasons, since i don't own it, only read it at a friend's
house, and i only remember how disappointed i was with it. Since i'm
something of a completist, i'd like to own it, but right now i'm
saving my dinar to go to and shop at Pennsic.
Finally avoid the Vehling version, available in a cheap Dover
publication, since Vehling was no scholar and made many mistakes.
All the above recommended cookbooks include the original recipes in
translation, as well as the author's worked out recipes - i wouldn't
recommend them if they didn't include the original recipes.
---
"The Deipnosophists", actually "Deipnosophistai", is translated as
"The Partying Professors", also called "The Dinner of the Savants"
and "Banquet of the Learned" and "Philosophers at Dinner" and other
such titles. It dates from circa 170-239 CE (the Roman period) and
was compiled by Athenaeus of Naucratis (since he was born and lived
in Naucratis, Egypt). It is a work in which is collected quotes from
other books, most of them now lost to the ravages of time, and put
into the mouths of a number of fictitious diners. It is intended for
use by diners to make clever conversation. Food related remarks are
rather scattered throughout, as far as i can tell. If you want to
make it a research project, you could get all the volumes out of the
library and start collecting food related comments. Otherwise, there
are excerpts from it in The Classical Cookbook and in A Taste of
Ancient Rome. Therefore, if you don't want to make the big research
project yet, i'd recommend starting with them.
---
OK, i wrote this before Vitaliano posted that he wants 15th C. Greek food.
Alas, there are no surviving cookbooks from so late. The best you can
do is what someone else recommended, read Andrew Dalby's book
"Flavours of Byzantium", which is not a cookbook, and look at Henry
Marks' "Byzantine Cuisine". Marks is no Greek scholar, so he used
works in French and translated them into English. Until Dalby's book
was published, it was the best compendium on Byzantine food. However,
he made a number of errors in his translations from the French, so,
while i'm glad i have Marks' book, Dalby is much more reliable, since
he *is* a scholar and he worked from the original Byzantine language
documents.
--
Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
the persona formerly known as Anahita
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