[Sca-cooks] Another potentially Hungarian recipe -- Messisbugo
emilio_szabo at yahoo.it
Wed Jun 11 15:34:54 PDT 2008
> Cristoforo Messisbugo, aka Cristoforo da Messisburgo, authored
> several cookbooks in the 16th century. One was Banchetti, ...
Georges Vicaire, in his "Bibliographie gastronomique" (online at
http://gallica.bnf.fr), mentions only the "Banchetti" and says, that this book
was published from 1552 onwards under a different title ("Libro novo ...").
I have not seen the 1549 edition, I have only a xerocopy of a Arnoldo Forni Editore
reprint of the 1557 edition of "Libro novo ...".
Which would be the other cookbooks by Messisbugo that you mentioned?
I think I have found the recipe in question in the "Libro novo ..." 1557.
> The Victoria and Albert museum in London has some recipes on their website.
> Among them is: Veal Soup in a Hungarian Uproar
> Take a piece of veal and cut it into small pieces, then fry in fat
> drippings. Add finely chopped onions and fry them with the veal. Once
> fried, place in a cooking pot with meat broth and add 300 grams of
> honey, 15 grams of pepper, 15 grams of cinnamon, an eighth of an
> ounce of saffron and 150 grams of raisins. Cook slowly; then serve.
> The original Italian is not given, and i wonder about that
> "Hungarian uproar"...
In Messisbugo, Libro novo ... 1557 (Arnaldo Forni reprint), this might be the recipe in question (page 91):
Pottaccio, di Vitello in Fracasso, Omgaresco.
PIglia un petto di Vitello, e fallo in pezzoli, e dopoi (dopoè?)
fallo soffrigere in grasso colato poi habbi Cipolle ben
peste, e gettale dentro a soffrigere, dopoi come, e soffrito
caualo della Patella, e ponilo in una Pignata con brodo di Carne,
e aggiungeli, libra una di mele, e oncia meza di peuere,
e Cannella, e uno ottauo di Zaffrano, e libra meza d'Vua
passa, e fallo finire di cuocere adagio, e lo imbandirai.
There are several other "hungarian" recipes, but they do not fit the version of the
Victoria and Albert museum.
By the way. Messisbugo seems to be a great culinary source in many respects (I got the xerocopy many years ago,
but today is the first day, I was actually reading parts of the text, strange, isn't it?).
-- He gives listings of several real banquets, he managed from 1529 to 1537.
-- He gives listings of officers and persons in charge with huge banquets.
-- He lists all the dining stuff: forks, table cloth, artisanal salt vessels in the form of ships and so forth.
-- He says, how the tables at certain banquets were prepared ("Apparata la tavola", p. 28).
-- He mentions hungarian preparations both in the menu listings (e.g. "Di Trutti in Vino alla Ongaresca", p. 12)
and in the recipe section ("A fare dieci piatti di minestra alla Ongaresca", p. 81).
-- And, very interesting, he mentions the TABLE MUSIC in some detail that was performed
between or accompanying the different dishes. ("E à questa Viuanda sonò questa Musica, ciòe due
Dolzaine, una storta, un Cornetto grosso, & un Trombone, ...", page 18 verso).
Thank you very much, Urtatim, for pointing to Messisbugo!
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