[Sca-cooks] Canisiones/Calisones

David Walddon david at vastrepast.com
Fri Jun 20 06:44:49 PDT 2008

Below is a small piece from a paper written for the 2001 Oxford  
Symposium on Food and Cookery From Menu, to Recipe, to Meal: a  
Renaissance Wedding Banquet by David S. Walddon. To give you a little  
background the abstract is pasted in first

The quote at the beginning of the recipe is from the menu.

The translation is the authors. In footnote lists the six  
corresponding recipes from the rest of the corpus.

These are YUMMY!



  This paper explores the wedding banquet of Giovanni Giacomo  
Trivulitio and Beatrice di Avolos d' Aquino. It then extends the menu  
by pairing recipes from the Martino corpus with the descriptions from  
the menu. These are recipes are followed by a modern redaction. All  
sources are translated out of the original Italian and into ÒmodernÓ  
English.  This progression from menu, to recipe, to meal gives the  
reader a glimpse of social ritual and food customs of Renaissance Italy.

Recipe One

"First was given . . . certain cakes made of almonds and sugar  
similar to marzipan"
LC.Martino #149[1]

Per far caliºcioni.

Renderai ºimil pieno — compoºitione, quale

E, la pr ºopraditta del marzapane, & ap

parichiarai la ºua paºta[2] laquale im

paºtarrai c› zuccharro, & acqua roºata, &

di ºtendi la ditta paºta amodo ch ºi uole

ººe far ravioli gli metterai di queºto pieno

facendoli grandi, — mezani, o, piccioli c›

mo tipari Et hauendo qualch forma de

ligno ben lavorata c› qualch gentile

za ’ formando li & premendoli di ºopra

pariranno piu belli avedŽr, Poi li farai

cocŽr ’ lapadella como il marzapane

hauendo bona diligentia ch n— fardino.

To make caliscioni[3]

Render them similarly filled or composed of the above said marzipan 
[4] and prepare your pasta, which is kneaded with sugar and rose  
water.  And spread the said pasta in the manner like raviolis are  
made. Then place these filled made-things, big or medium or little,  
as they seem to you.  And having some form of well worked line with  
some dainties, form and press them from above so they appear more  
beautifully made.  Then have them cooked in the pan like marzipan.   
Having good diligence that they do not become open.

Marzipan Dainties

1 cup flour                                                2  
teaspoons rose water

1 large egg                                                8 oz. pre- 
made marzipan

2 teaspoons oil                                                1  
beaten egg (optional)

a pinch of salt                                                2  
tablespoons sugar (optional)

2 tablespoons sugar

Pre-heat oven to 325 degrees F (163 C).

In a large bowl make a well from the flour. In the middle place the  
egg, oil, salt, sugar and flavoring. Beat the liquid ingredients with  
a fork until well combined. Slowly incorporate the flour into the  
liquid. Once all are combined turn the dough out onto a floured  
surface and knead until the dough becomes smooth and elastic. Roll a  
quarter of the dough fairly thin with a pin or in a pasta mill.

Place a layer of dough in a ravioli form.  Place a small piece of  
marzipan in each ravioli space.  Cover with more dough and press the  
two pieces together with a rolling pin.  Repeat until all the dough  
and marzipan are used up.

Although not specified in the original recipe these dainties are best  
brushed with egg and sprinkled with sugar before baking them.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Serve warm  
or at room temperature. Makes approximately 24.

Note: Rose water will vary greatly in strength from brand to brand.   
Start out with a few drops and add until the fragrance and flavor are  
enough. If rose water is unavailable or undesirable replace it with  
orange, lemon or vanilla flavoring.

[1] VatMartino #146 ÒPer fare chaliscioniÓ, Riva #164 ÒPer fare  
calisoniÓ, Platina...tr...Milham Bk. VIII #49 ÒRolls which they call  
CanisionesÓ,  BŸhler 19 #161 ÒCalisoni boni Ò, Rosselli #188 ÒPer  
fare caliscioniÓ, EP1598 #194 To make an Italian meat called Caliscioni
[2] The scribe has written over top of the original middle letters  
with a long "s" and a "t".
[3] Florio Ð Calisoni, a kinde of comfets so called.
[4] In LCMartino the recipe immediately before this recipe is for  


Food is life. May the plenty that graces your table truly be a VAST  

David Walddon
david at vastrepast.com

On Jun 20, 2008, at 5:35 AM, Johnna Holloway wrote:

> These are also in The Original Med. Cuisine by Santich.
> Marzipan pastries on pages 156-157. She lists several other recipes
> and variants that can be found.
> Johnnae
> Lilinah wrote:
>> I'm going to bake Canisione/Calisone tonight.
>> I'm basically using the recipe from Platina: Book 8: Which They  
>> Call Canisiones
>> I'm also taking into consideration the recipe in the Neapolitan  
>> cookbook: Good Calisones
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