[Sca-cooks] Was vinegar or verjuice most used in sauces?
Daniel Myers
dmyers at medievalcookery.com
Thu Feb 20 08:23:01 PST 2014
From the data I've got already compiled
(http://medievalcookery.com/statistics.html), the use of one over the
other appears to vary both by location and time. France seems to prefer
verjuice over vinegar - not surprising given their inclination to grow
grapes. England preferred vinegar up until the end of the 15th century
and then switched to verjuice. Germany seems to have rarely used
verjuice. See the numbers below.
- Doc
-=-=-
England
Forme of Cury (England, 1390)
vinegar 15% 43
verjuice 4% 13
Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)
vinegar 32% 69
verjuice 6% 13
Liber cure cocorum (England, 1430)
vinegar 14% 19
verjuice 4% 6
Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)
vinegar 20% 102
verjuice 6% 32
A Proper newe Booke of Cokerye (England, mid-16th c.)
verjuice 14% 7
vinegar 10% 5
A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)
verjuice 31% 54
vinegar 10% 18
The Good Housewife's Jewell (England, 1596)
verjuice 17% 26
vinegar 12% 18
-=-=-
France
Enseignements (France, ca. 1300)
vinegar 17% 10
verjuice 14% 8
Viandier de Taillevent (France, ca. 1380)
verjuice 31% 70
vinegar 16% 36
Menagier de Paris (France, 1393)
verjuice 15% 94
vinegar 11% 68
Du fait de cuisine (France, 1420)
verjuice 43% 35
vinegar 23% 19
Recueil de Riom (France, 15th century)
verjuice 26% 13
vinegar 18% 9
Ouverture de Cuisine (France, 1604)
verjuice 6% 13
vinegar 5% 11
-=-=-
Germany
Ein Buch von guter spise (Germany, ca. 1345)
vinegar 13% 14
verjuice < 1% 1
Das Kochbuch des Meisters Eberhard (Germany, ca.1450)
vinegar 10% 12
verjuice 0% 0
-=-=-
Italy
Libro di cucina / Libro per cuoco (Italy, 14th/15th c.)
vinegar 19% 26
verjuice 17% 24
Cuoco Neapolitano ((Italy, 15th c)
verjuice 25% 56
vinegar 11% 25
> -------- Original Message --------
> From: Volker Bach <carlton_bach at yahoo.de>
> Date: Thu, February 20, 2014 2:26 am
>
> Most likely by region, too. The sixteenth century medical writer Hieronymus Tragus states that (in Germany), vinegar (essig) is the sauce of the poor, the only seasoning they can afford. Verjuice, by contrast, hardly features at all. Of course earlier German recipes do include it, but I would still venture that in Germany, vinegar was always the more common. The German word essig does not distinguish between wine and malt vinegar, so it presumably means either. Verjuice can't have been easy to come by outside wine-growing areas, but malt vinegar could be made at home, after all. By contrast, making verjuice fresh would have been an option for large parts of the year in wine-growing areas in Southern Europe.
>
> As to interpreting German recipes, it is important to keep in mind essig does not always mean vinegar at all, though. Any sour seasoning could be given that name. I assume in most cases it means vinegar, but I can't be sure, and there are cases where it clearly doesn't.
>
> YIS
>
> Giano
>
>
>
>
>
> Richenda du Jardin <richenda.du.jardin at gmail.com> schrieb am 3:41 Donnerstag, 20.Februar 2014:
>
> Hmm, this is an interesting question. I'm working on a project that is
> looking at spices and how they were used in recipes - such as which
> types of recipes were more likely to use spices: soups or pies, meat or
> dairy, etc. (This project then looks at what spices and herbs
> households are using and whether the recipe collections are a good
> reflection of the tastes of the times.)
>
> I'm also cataloging the use of sugar vs. honey in recipes for future
> study. It wouldn't be hard to pull vinegar vs. verjuice for the same.
>
> Richenda
>
> On 2/19/2014 4:09 PM, Stefan li Rous wrote:
> > Jim Chevallier made an off-hand comment of:
> > <<< Admittedly this Belgian version does use white wine (which would more
> > likely have been verjuice in the period) >>>
> >
> > Hmmm. This brings up an interesting question. Was it really more common to use verjuice instead of vinegar in period?
> >
> > Of course, we have the usual problem of what is meant by period.
> >
> > I don't have access to Johnna's Concordance, but a quick glance through the sauces-msg file in the Florilegium seems to show about as many or more sauces using vinegar as verjuice. And a lot of recipes that call for vinegar or verjuice. Or vinegar and verjuice.
> >
> > We also have possible translation fuzziness, where verjuice might get replaced with vinegar because the translator didn't know the difference or was using the latter because it was easier to get these days. Which is an example of why I always like to see the original for redactions. :-)
> >
> > Maybe it varies more by the type of sauce or region or time period?
> >
> > Opinions?
> >
> > Stefan
> > --------
> > THLord Stefan li Rous Barony of Bryn Gwlad Kingdom of Ansteorra
> > Mark S. Harris Austin, Texas StefanliRous at austin.rr.com
> > http://www.linkedin.com/in/marksharris
> > **** See Stefan's Florilegium files at: http://www.florilegium.org ****
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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